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Author Topic: Teton Canyon Ice Conditions  (Read 5580 times)
Dean Lords
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« on: November 16, 2006, 05:02:40 PM »


Things are forming quickly in Teton Canyon. Here's a rundown of what we saw on 11/15/06.

The Left Ghost is formed, but with an open tube in the center, yet can be climbed either on the left or the right.
The Right Ghost is looking super good, but needs another 8 feet or so to touch down. Should be good to go by the weekend.
All three pitches of Landslide (aka Practice Area) were formed. The second step in questionable, but the third is a nice juicy pillar.
Lemans in nothing more than veglas, but it is forming.
The second pitch of Spin Cycle is well on its way, with the rarely formed first pitch showing signs of life.
Boy Scout Falls takes a strong second place for the least formed route in the canyon.

We gave a go at Boy Scout yesterday, and had fun with it offering up super thin ice climbing, lots of rock moves, some rock gear, and a few stubbies thrown in for good measure. The top of the route was completely void of ice, so you might want to wait a little longer on this one!

Bruce....
Perhaps we can come up with a conditions specific link for Teton Canyon, Twin Falls, and other nearby ice climbing venues. I think it would be nice to have as the winter progresses and others post conditions of areas and routes. Just a thought.
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dave bingham
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« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2006, 07:51:48 PM »

Hey all,
I hear the ice up Trail Creek (above sun valley) is also in good condition. There are typically a couple grade 3/4 ice routes (2-3 pitches) and some shorter, harder stuff. 
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Jerry Painter
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« Reply #2 on: November 17, 2006, 10:59:57 AM »

Wondering what the condition of Green Pea is? Also, tell us about the road in. Is it still driveable? I haven't been to the Tetons in a couple of weekends.
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Dean Lords
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« Reply #3 on: November 17, 2006, 07:58:33 PM »

Conditions in Teton Canyon 11/17/16

The road is in pretty good shape. Less than one foot of snow on the valley floor, but it was snowing heavily when we left this evening.

Routes are slowly getting better, but still not anywhere close to being in normal conditions. Green Pea looks okay, the central pillar is touching but pretty skinny. The third tier of Landslide looked really good this morning when we walked past it, but it had fallen down sometime during the day.

Mike Howard, Wade Seeley and I climbed the Right Ghost today. Difficult overhanging drytooling behind the pillar for 40 feet to get onto the ice, followed by WI 6 to the anchors. It still needs about 8 feet or so to go before touching down, but there is now a boot track up to it!

Be safe....
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Dean Lords
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« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2006, 10:06:19 AM »

We climbed 11/24 and 11/25 in Teton Canyon.

Most of the north and east facing routes are in pretty good shape with the exeption of Boy Scout Falls. The Right Ghost is touched down and the Left Ghost is good also. Routes across from Devils Staircase are huge. Landslide is in poor shape. Geen Pea looks okay. Leman's isn't happening.

The road was in great shape.
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Bruce A. Black
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Having fun!


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« Reply #5 on: November 28, 2006, 01:53:35 AM »

Dean,

Do you think a forum category for Ice Climbing is in order? Is that what your suggestion was for?

I could easily add this, just let me know.

I could also add guide/topo info from the main home page if someone was willing to put together the content, this would be way cool I think.
« Last Edit: November 28, 2006, 01:55:20 AM by Bruce A. Black » Report to moderator   Logged

"The best climber in the world is the one who's having the most fun." - Alex Lowe
bryan feinsten
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« Reply #6 on: December 09, 2006, 05:42:12 PM »

If anyone happens to be climbing at Boy Scout Falls in the next few days, if you notice a multi tool at the base of the climb on the left of the flow, please email me or call me at 315.427.4930.  It fell out of my pack and I totally forgot about it until I made it back to Jackson.

Thanks.

Bryan
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Dean Lords
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« Reply #7 on: December 10, 2006, 10:47:43 PM »

Conditions in Teton Canyon are great. Climbed at Reunioin on 12/9/06. Super highway boot track to the base. Less than 8 inches of snow on the ground. All routes at Reunion are good. The pillar on the right is also very climbable. We left a V-thread at the top of the route. Thanks to the individual(s) who replaced the old webbing at the top of the Center and Left routes!

There was a party at BS Falls, which from the road, looked to be in great shape also. We did not explore futher up the canyon, but would suspect most if not all routes are in great shape. I suspect the poor skiing conditions to be the reason for the increase in climbing traffic this year. Not to mention you can still drive to the end of the road.

Anybody else care to comment on route conditions over the weekend?
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Tom S.
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« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2006, 06:11:47 PM »

sunnyside was looking good as of last sunday. I would never guess it was winter. 
(but for ice routes... I have no clue)
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cheers foo,
tom
Matt TeNgaio
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« Reply #9 on: December 29, 2006, 09:44:35 AM »

Does anyone know conditions, (ice and trail), in Teton Canyon as of 12/29? Broken trial to Reunion Falls, Boy Scout Falls or one of the Ghosts?
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Dean Lords
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« Reply #10 on: December 29, 2006, 11:17:51 AM »

Valerie and I climbed at Green Pea on 12/23. All routes looked to be in great shape. There was a boot track to Reunion, but was covered by an inch or two of new snow. Same for Green Pea and the practice area.

Not sure what you'll find with the recent snow we've received. If you do go up to the Right Ghost (and put in a boot track for lazy people like me!) The two new routes are: 'Somewhere Between Heaven and Hell' M8ish (likely a bit easier with the pillar completely formed offering the chance to stem earlier) on the left, and 'Poltergeist' M6+ish on the right.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2007, 09:38:53 PM by Dean Lords » Report to moderator   Logged
Kevin Hansen
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« Reply #11 on: January 01, 2007, 11:56:54 PM »

Chad Nash and I went into Teton C. on 12-30-06 and the trail to Boy Scout was in good shape. There was boot tracks up to the base of the falls and a nice stance kicked out to the left of the base as well as a nice stance at the 2nd pitch. What is the deal with nothing but the death triangle at the top of pitch 1? I took off some old slings and rearranged the newest looking cordage there.
The Ice was lean but enough and no more frozen moss at the top left of the 2nd pitch, instead a nice curtin of ice.
I'm looking to get into the canyon again and looking for a partner. I've got every day this week off except Thursday. Let me know.
Kevin
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Dean Lords
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« Reply #12 on: February 14, 2007, 10:57:50 AM »

Rick Williams and I spent nearly two hours wallowing in knee and crotch deep snow (with snowshoes on!) to climb at the Right Ghost on 2/13. I hope someone can take advantage of our trailbreaking efforts and enjoy the great routes up there before it gets burried.

Get it while the gettin' is easy!
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kevinhansen
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Don't believe a word I say. Or should you?


« Reply #13 on: March 14, 2007, 04:14:22 PM »

Anyone been in the Canyon lately? Is there any ice left? What about snow conditions?
Kevin
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kevinhansen
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« Reply #14 on: December 11, 2011, 10:36:15 AM »

Anyone been in the Canyon lately? Is there any ice left? What about snow conditions?
Kevin

If its worth saying once, its worth saying twice. Anything in?
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A good climber dies in his bed.
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