Interview - Dean Lords
The Interviews are a new feature on SEIClimbing.com. We are going to try and highlight various climbers in the area so we can get to know each other and give kudos to those who help make the scene a bit better. So here is our first installment...
Dean Lords has been active in the climbing scene since 1988 when at the age of thirteen he was introduced to climbing through the Boy Scouts (see below). From there he went on to climb in the Tetons and at the City of Rocks. Five years later Dean visited Smith Rocks and discovered the Zen of movement. That summer Dean made an ascent of Smith Rock's Rude Boys (5.13c). Not only is Dean an accomplished rock climber, he is a fine Alpinist climbing hard mixed routes and straight on ice climbs. This well rounded climber has been able to make a living in the climbing scene by working for Mammut. Most recently, Dean has taught clinics at the 2008 Ouray Ice Festival. You can read more about this on his blog
SEIC: How did you get into climbing?
DL: My Scout Master took me rappelling at Heise Rock. I didn’t really like it, so I would climb up the west face and walk back down instead of rapping off the back side. Funny, I still don’t like rappelling and will opt to walk or down climb rather than rappel when possible.
SEIC: What type of climbing did you first get involved in?
DL: Back in the late 80’s we didn’t have a whole lot of sport climbing until Chuck Odette brought the vision to eastern Idaho. Before Chuck took me under his wing, you could often find me scaling different local cliffs with a rack of hardware store nuts that I borrowed from my dad’s endless fix it projects. I’d sling these nuts with webbing that I would purchase from Solitude Sports with my school lunch money. I think there are still a few “fixed nuts” on a cliff I would frequent in the Willow Creek drainage east of Idaho Falls!
SEIC: How long have you been hitting it?
DL: My first introduction to rock climbing was in 1988. I’ll let you do the math! I started ice climbing during the winter of 1993/94.
SEIC: Now you practice all forms of climbing, what is your favorite?
DL: The type of climbing I’m motivated for at that time. I really like being in the mountains on technical mixed terrain just as much as I like sport and traditional climbing. It really just depends what I’m in the mood for! Although, I would rather go to the gym than go bouldering… is that bad?
SEIC: Rock type, which do you prefer?
DL: Steep…
SEIC: What do you enjoy doing besides climbing?
DL: Going to the movies and eating at fancy restaurants.
SEIC: Why do you think it is that professional climbers cannot make a real living like say a pro skater, skier/snowboarder, or surfer?
DL:I think this question is a bit dated, have you seen what Chris Sharma, Dean Potter, or Dave Graham (just to name a few) takes home in a year? The reality is that professional climbers are in an entirely different playing field than a sponsored climber who typically receives only a product allotment from said climbing company. There are many professional climbers who draw a very worthwhile salary from climbing companies, not just the three I listed.
SEIC: Describe your dream trip?
DL: The one I’m working on for 2008! The south face of Mount Hicks in the Southern Alps of New Zealand then off to Sardinia Italy for sport climbing and beach time with Heather. I’m sure I’ll have another dream trip come to mind after that.
SEIC: What does South East Idaho need to further climbing?
DL: I think we need to accept the fact that our area is not blessed with abundant amounts of usable featured stone like other areas of the country. If this were to happen, perhaps we could unite in one common vision as to what to do with all of our choss. If not, we will likely continue to drag along behind the rest of the climbing world as our future generations take their talents to other places outside of eastern Idaho in search of personal evolution.
SEIC: What drives you to climb?
DL: Movement.
SEIC: How many days a year do you get to climb?
DL: Too many to keep track of.
SEIC: What is your one essential piece of gear?
DL: Fear.
SEIC:Out of the climbing areas in South East Idaho, which do you like the most? Why?
DL: The ephemeral mixed alpine routes of the Lost River Range. I know that’s not exactly Southeast Idaho, but this is where I dream of being the most when I’m in Southeast Idaho.
SEIC: Do you train?
DL: Yes. I’m not that strong or talented of a climber. I just work hard at chasing after my dreams.
SEIC: Do you watch what you eat or scarf anything you want?
DL: I follow a strict diet of cheese cake, cheese burgers, and Marshmallow Matie’s with 2% milk.
SEIC: Do you favor a professional image for climbing's future or do you like its fringe lineage?
DL: I feel the past is the past and should be something we learn from… not something we should try to repeat. For me personally, I enjoy my salary from being a professional in the industry over smoking dope and trying to keep something alive that died a long time ago. Evolution is a good thing, and change is the catalyst for it. For me, climbing is about playing the game by my rules and on my own terms, not about the image. But that’s just me.
SEIC: How do you feel about our governments view on the environment?
DL: I choose D (all of the above).
SEIC: What do you think we as climbers need to do to preserve our climbing resources?
DL: I think we need to look into the future and realize that the ways of yester year and the policy of secrecy are nearing critical mass. If we continue in our games of secrecy, the future generations will not have what we are trying to preserve in secrecy. I think it comes down to caring about the future of climbing in our area, not just ourselves during this time right now. Catalog your routes; open your secret crags to others. When the time comes to secure access at our climbing areas, the voices of a few secret keepers will fall on deaf ears and the freedom of climbing could be lost to various land management agencies or to private parties. But with a united community of likeminded individuals, I believe there is a chance to be heard.
SEIC: MP3 or CDs?
DL: Mixed tapes! I bet kids these days don’t even know what those are!! I like the idea of MP3’s though…
SEIC: What do you listen to?
DL: Maybe it will be easier to say I don’t listen to RAP. Well, I take that back, I do like old school RAP. Other than that, I’m game.
SEIClimbing.com thanks Dean for his time and contributions to this site. Even more so, we thank Dean for his contributions to the climbing in Idaho. You can check out pictures Dean has taken on various trips in the gallery (use the search feature in the gallery to bring up Dean's pictures quicker).
