May 1 marks the end of the annual winter closure of the area that South Park sits in.

Just a reminder to those who haven’t climbed there yet to be on guard when belaying or hanging out at the base (do not stand beneath someone climbing!). This place is a full on choss pile and rock comes flying off time to time. Bring bug spray in the heat of mosquito season too. That being said, it is a killer place to get some pump on and to experience a completely different style of sport climbing. Like Dean said, “if you’re on a crimp, you’re probably off route”.

Getting there: Drive past Heise Rock and take the next right on the road (before the cattleguard) to Kelly Island Campground and Stinking Springs trailhead and drive for about 3 miles. There is very limited parking right in front of the crag and may be best to continue past the wall and park at the big pullout on the left. A very faint trail opening is located about 50 yards pass the limited parking spot.

Here’s a guide to the routes as of April 2010. Ratings are very suggestive!

1. Big Gay Al – .11b/c

2. Who Killed Kenny – .10d/.11a

3. Project

4. Scary Rattlesnake – .11b/c

5. Smug Alert – .10c/d

6. Cartman – .11b/c

7. Hippy Digger – .12b/c

8. Make Love Not Warcraft – .12a/b

(next 3 routes are by the trees)

9. Mr. Hankey – .12a/b

10. Scuzzlebutt – .11a/b

11. Chef’s Meatballs – .10d/.11a

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