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Dean Lords on The Basilisk, Weeping Cave

Another shot of Dean higher on the route.

Here’s a couple of shots of Dean checking out The Basilisk at the Weeping Cave sector at Palisades. For more insight into the route and area check out his blog. BOOM.

On a tip from a good friend of mine I started scoping out Palisades Cr. this past winter/spring via skis in the hope of finding quality limestone to climb. What I found literally had me chomping at the bit to come back with drill in  hand.

The canyon is riddled with rock and lush vegetation. However, most of the rock that is close to the parking area and on the trailside of the creek is unworthy – the rock that is good is found higher up in the canyon. The vegetation in the canyon is testament to the moisture it receives too. I’ve only 2 days out of about 10 that I didn’t get rained out eventually. I know it’s an abnormally wet summer this year but it’s something to keep in mind when you head in there to climb. Bring a rain jacket.

Looking out to the right side of Weeping Cave

The wall that is in current development mode has been dubbed “Weeping Cave”. It is a wall that has a small cave on the left side. As the wall progresses right, it slowly starts to lean back and eventually becomes vertical. Routes range from 40’– 75’. So far the route count is at about 9 but I’ve got a few more lines in mind, (easy–hard), so it’ll probably cap off at about 12-14 I’m guessing.

Also, there are a few more sectors near the Weeping Cave, (one large freakin’-burly cave too!), that I’m hoping to pursue as well.

One thing you’ll notice in the routes listed below is that half of the routes are still in project mode. Schedules and weather conditions this seaon have limited how much I can frequent the wall to actually climb the routes (as opposed to time spent bolting/cleaning by myself) so I apologize for what may seem like a premature post. I figured that summer is nearly at it’s half way mark and I want to let people know of the crag so they can get out and check it out. Feel free to jump on whatever but please be mindful of respecting the route equippers request to have the chance to FA said routes.

One thing that people might not like is the idea of having to hike 1.5 mi. to get to the crag. Believe me, the trail is very easy and flat. With a 60 lb. pack of bolting gear I can do it in 40 min., (and I have the worst chicken legs you’ve ever seen). If you climb at Massacre and occasionally hike out to All American Wall or climb at the Fins and hike up to the Discovery Wall, you’ll find the hike to the Weeping Cave sector very easy and enjoyable.

My goal in establishing routes has always been to find an area that could host climbers of all abilities. When Mike B. and I bolted RPM Wall in Wolverine Canyon, that was what we thought we found. In the end, RPM Wall ended up being pretty much .11’s and .12’s, with a couple of mediocre easy routes. On the other hand, Weeping Cave has been dishing out some pretty cool easy/moderates along with some burly-ass hard routes. Hopefully we continue to find quality routes that run the gamut when it comes to difficulty.

To get there:
Palisades Creek, near Swan Valley, ID. Park and hike for about a mile and cross the first bridge. Another .5 or so and chossy cliffs appear to the left of the trail. Continue hiking for about another 100 yards (?) and where the limestone cliffs turn to quality and start to get closer to the trail keep your eyes peeled for bolts and anchors. There is a very faint trail that I am meaning to mark with tape but haven’t yet. Weeping Cave is just a stones throw up from the trail.

Non-interactive map for Weeping Cave approach

Routes (as of 07.06.09):
(left to right)
1. Uber Unagi (project) Merges and shares anchors with The Basilisk.
2. The Basilisk (open project)
3. Qt. of Blood Technique (.12c/d project)
4. Chupacabra (project) – .12’sh that still needs cleaning and anchors relocated but is fully equipped and climbable.
5. 9 Cow Wife – .11b/c
6. Easy St. – .9
7. Grovel Rd. – (.12a/b. project) 2 bolt ext. to Easy St. that stills needs cleaning and possible bolt relocation but is fully equipped and climbable.
8. Kaya – .10c/d Share bolts with Grovel Rd.
9. Sasquatch – .10d Located far right on the arete.

The ratings are mere suggestions so feel free to add to the consensus.

Shout outs: Tom Smartt and Mike Benson for helping to develop. Jerry Painter for monetary donies. Scott Hurst for generous hardware donies.

If anyone has old but reliable biners they’d like to donate for anchors feel free to contact me.